In a remote corner of Indonesia, where dynamite fishing and shark finning were once commonplace, reefs are in rude health and shark populations are on the rise. Could Misool offer hope for the rest of our blue planet?
First time visitors to Indonesia will notice several things; generous smiles, trees plump with exotic fruits, looming volcanic peaks, colours, vibrancy, and the ever-present ocean which surrounds the 54,716km coastline, the second longest in the world. The Indonesian archipelago consists of more than 17,000 islands and, while most are uninhabited, this sprawling nation is home to more coastal communities than anywhere else on Earth. The ocean is the lifeblood of these communities and one place where the culture is most deeply connected to the sea is Raja Ampat, the Amazon of the reefs.
Raja Ampat is one of the most biodiverse places on the planet. Its waters are home to more than 600 species of coral (in comparison, the entire Caribbean region contains fewer than 60), more than 1,500 species of fish, and its reefs are teeming with manta rays, turtles and wobbegong sharks. Located off the north-western tip of the Papuan mainland, Indonesia’s easternmost frontier, it is a place of abundance, vibrancy and wonder.
Despite this wealth of biodiversity, Indonesia is one of the world’s leading culprits of environmental and ecosystem destruction. The country boasts the world’s highest diversity of shark species, yet is home to the world’s largest shark fishery, where as many as 300 sharks are killed every day. Altogether, more than 100,000 tons of shark is caught every year. But its burgeoning eco-tourism industry is disrupting this fishery, much of which is illegal and all of which is unsustainable. Most importantly, the eco-tourism sector is offering sustainable alternatives to the way Indonesia utilises its blue economy.
Reshaping the future
Hidden deep in an archipelago of uninhabited islands, pristine reefs, and primary rainforests is private island resort, Misool. Located in the most southern reaches of Raja Ampat, Misool was founded by Andrew and Marit Miners. In 2005, the Miners were diving in this remote area 165km out to sea when they discovered an active shark-finning camp. The stark contrast between the tranquil haven they’d experienced underwater and the senseless destruction taking place at the surface jarred the pair into action. It was a catalysing moment that resulted in a promise to protect this exceptional ecosystem. A lease agreement was forged with the local community in 2005, laying the groundwork for a privately managed marine protected area that has now expanded to 300,000 acres (1,220 sq km), with Misool Resort at its centre. The resort was built on the very beach that had once been home to shark-finners.
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