Exploration

Antarctica's moments of ice and insight

For expedition photographer, Max Unterharnscheidt - stepping foot in Antarctica for the first time last year 'was like stepping into another world' with a vastness, a stillness, and a beauty unparalleled. But alongside beauty are reminders that even the most remote places aren't free from human impact.

19/05/2025
Written by Max Uhs
Photography by Max Uhs

Setting foot in Antarctica for my first season as an expedition photographer in 2023/24  was like stepping into another world. Over the course of three months, I had the privilege  of experiencing a place that defies description—its vastness, silence, and raw beauty are unparalleled. 

No image or video can ever fully capture the feeling of being there. It’s a humbling experience that often brought tears to my eyes. To witness this untouched wilderness, to feel its biting winds and see its surreal landscapes, is a privilege that words can barely convey. Each day is a gift in Antarctica, a reminder of the planet’s  grandeur and fragility. 

It’s not just the ice that stirs the soul—but the life it supports. Every spring and summer,  this frozen continent awakens once more. Penguins return to find their lifelong mates. Whales rise again in the icy waters. Seabirds soar above the glaciers. It is a world reborn with every season.

Antarctica is a land sculpted by extremes. Its ice sheet holds about 60% of the world’s total fresh water (90% of the surface fresh water) and averages of 2000 meters in thickness, reaching depths of up to 4,900 meters in some areas. These monumental ice formations are shaped by the relentless forces of wind and water, creating a constantly evolving landscape. 

On calm days, the glaciers and towering mountains frame the icy sculptures drifting in the waters below. Each iceberg is a unique masterpiece, a fleeting reminder of nature’s impermanence. Watching them silently float is both awe-inspiring and sobering—a reflection of the delicate balance that defines this region. 

One moment in particular will stay with me forever: a sunset we witnessed while transiting to our next destination. A colleague and I stood in complete silence on deck for over two hours, watching the light change. The sky shifted from fiery orange to soft pastels, casting an otherworldly glow over the icebergs around us. Humpback whales surfaced in the distance, moving gently through the golden light. It felt like time stood still—a moment of pure awe, quiet, and reverence. One I’ll never forget. 

Sunset in Antarctica
Antarctica's dramatic landscape is breathtaking

Antarctica’s Wild Encounters 

During my two seasons on the Antarctic Peninsula, I’ve experienced encounters with wildlife that have left me in awe. These moments – intimate and often fleeting – reveal the soul of the continent more than any glacier or mountain ever could. And by sharing just a few of them, I hope to give a glimpse of why this place is so  extraordinary – and why it so urgently needs protection.

Last November, I witnessed Antarctica’s Gentoo Penguins returning to shore – leaping through the surf and waddling over rocky terrain as they prepared for the breeding season. These moments, small but powerful, feel like the heartbeat of the continent – evidence that life not only survives here but thrives. 

One of the most memorable encounters this season was with a Leopard Seal. Spotting one is always special – they are apex predators, sleek and powerful. But what many  don’t realise is how complex and intelligent these animals are. One swam alongside our Zodiac for over twenty minutes, watching us with what felt like curiosity, not aggression. 

Leopard Seals are natural hunters, yes – but they are also intelligent, often playful, and misunderstood. Much of their diet also consists of krill, just like the penguins, whales, and birds they share the sea with. Penguins do become prey when the opportunity  arises, especially as young, inexperienced chicks begin to explore the water at the end of a season. 

It was during this late-season window that we observed one of the most dramatic  scenes of the expedition: a young Adélie Penguin, isolated from its group, became the focus of a Leopard Seal. From the air, using a drone, we watched as the seal captured and released the penguin multiple times – a haunting yet natural display. Then, something unexpected happened: the penguin stopped struggling and played dead. The seal lost interest.

Against all odds, the penguin escaped. Witnessing such a raw and unscripted moment – where instinct and chance collide – is rare. Not every story in the wild ends this way, but every encounter like this deepens my sense of respect for these animals and their world.

the waters of Antarctica are filled with wildlife
Antarctica in the sunset

Another night brought a completely different kind of magic. Just before midnight, under a sky painted with the soft colours of polar twilight, we spotted a group of Humpback Whales engaging in bubble-net feeding – a behaviour only recently observed in Antarctic waters. This cooperative hunting technique involves one or more whales diving below a  swarm of krill and releasing spirals of bubbles to trap the prey in a tight column. Then, in  perfect unison, the whales surge upward with mouths open to engulf the catch. 

This technique requires both learned behaviour and precise coordination, passed down through generations of whales. It was long believed to occur only in northern populations, making sightings in Antarctica exceptionally rare. Watching it unfold in complete silence, framed by icebergs and golden light, was one of the most powerful experiences of the season. A reminder that even in one of the most remote corners of the Earth, there is still wonder – and still mystery.

Balancing Exploration and Conservation in Antarctica 

In recent years, tourism in Antarctica has surged to unprecedented levels. According to the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), the 2023/24 season saw 80,251 landed visitors, 43,224 cruise-only passengers, and 787 deep-field explorers. While these numbers reflect a growing desire to experience the continent’s wonders, they also raise significant concerns. 

The increased human presence brings risks, such as disturbances to wildlife and the potential spread of diseases like avian influenza, which has already affected bird populations in some areas. As someone working in this industry, I can’t ignore the irony – I am both a witness to and a contributor to the challenges facing this fragile environment. 

Yet, I see the efforts to mitigate these impacts. By raising awareness and promoting responsible tourism, we hope to foster a deeper understanding of the continent’s value and the importance of preserving it. Still, the question remains: How much tourism is too much? 

Tourism, however, is not the only pressure Antarctica faces. During our most recent  season, alarming news broke: two nations had agreed to ease restrictions on krill  fishing, planning to increase their fleets in Antarctic waters. These same countries also  blocked the establishment of four new marine protected areas around the continent. 

Krill may be small, but their role in the Antarctic ecosystem is monumental. They are a  primary food source for countless species—penguins, seals, and whales among them.  And with industrial-scale fishing increasing, the balance of this delicate food chain is at  risk. There have even been reports of whales becoming entangled and dying in the long  

nets used by krill fishing vessels. It’s a sobering reminder of how human activity, even  thousands of kilometres from home, can disrupt even the most remote ecosystems on  Earth.

The Power of Antarctica: A Story Worth Telling 

Antarctica is more than a destination—it’s a revelation. Its silence teaches humility, its  vastness inspires awe, and its beauty leaves an imprint that never fades. After 21  expeditions, I’ve come to see my role as an expedition photographer not just as a  witness, but as a storyteller with a responsibility. 

Through my lens, I try to bring back not just images, but emotions—moments of wonder,  vulnerability, resilience. These are the stories I want to share with those who may never  stand on Antarctic ice, feel the sting of katabatic winds, or hear the haunting call of a  distant whale. Each photograph is a fragment of a larger truth: that this place matters.  That it needs our attention, and our protection.

It’s easy to feel powerless in the face of global challenges, but I believe that  storytelling—when rooted in authenticity—has the power to change perspectives. And  perhaps, through changed perspectives, we find the will to act. 

Antarctica has changed me. It has made me more patient, more present, and more  aware of how fragile beauty can be. With every season I return, I carry home not just 

memories, but a deeper sense of purpose. As long as I’m lucky enough to be here, I’ll  keep telling its story—one frame, one moment, one truth at a time.

Written by Max Uhs
Photography by Max Uhs

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