On the remote Conflict Islands in Papua New Guinea’s Milne Bay Province, something astonishing can be witnessed. After the local sea turtle population was almost entirely decimated by poachers, a conservation project has managed to turn the tide for the charismatic reptiles by hatching around 28,000 eggs this season alone.
The Conflict Islands atoll is made up of 21 pristine islands, each fringed by vibrant coral reefs that are teeming with marine life. While the name may evoke images of strife, in reality, the Conflict Islands are a sanctuary for biodiversity, isolated from modern development. They offer critical nesting grounds for endangered hawksbill and green sea turtles and, off the coast, manta rays, sharks, and an astonishing variety of fish species roam the colourful reefs. Beyond their ecological significance, the islands hold cultural value for local communities who have long relied on the ocean for sustenance and spiritual connection. Conservation efforts in the area are therefore not just about protecting wildlife but about empowering the local communities, respecting their deep-rooted knowledge, and working together to ensure that the Conflict Islands remain a sanctuary for generations to come.
Ocean photographers and conservationists Hayley Verace and Edward Cardwell first fell in love with the Conflict Islands back in 2012 when they travelled to the region to assist in operations of the local resort. In 2016, after deciding that they wanted to do something to give back to nature, the opportunity came up to manage the resort. Within four weeks they had packed up their life in Western Australia and moved to the islands. A small turtle conservation programme, led by marine scientist Natalie Robson, had begun in the same year of Verace’s and Cardwell’s arrival and after seeing the success and the enthusiasm for that programme, they became inspired to develop and encourage more conservation initiatives throughout the atoll and the surrounding communities. After witnessing the negative impacts of poorly managed tourism in other international tourism destinations, they wanted to make sure that wouldn’t be the case on the Conflict Islands.
“The Conflict Islands Conservation Initiative (CICI) was developed because there was a need for conservation and education to be undertaken to protect the delicate ecosystems of the Conflict Islands,” explains Verace. She continues: “When we first arrived, the overharvesting of nesting turtle mothers and their eggs, as well as the capture and finning of endangered shark species was rife, and dangerous, unsustainable harvesting techniques of sea cucumbers for bêche-de-mer [the commercial name for dried sea cucumbers – a local delicacy] were, and still are, the only sources of income for local families. We wanted to create new income streams from non-destructive industries such as ecotourism and by creating an Indigenous Ranger Conservation programme. Exponential population growth, lack of contraception, lack of accessible education and employment opportunities leaves little opportunity beyond artisanal fishing to make a living. This is where CICI found its footing to create employment while also addressing education around marine conservation and respecting traditional harvest and conservation practices that predate any scientific influences.”
Since its inception, the CICI has made a conscious effort to employ rangers from neighbouring communities without discrimination based on education, disability, or gender. As some of these community members actively harvest sharks and turtles to sustain their families, numerous meetings have been held to discuss scientific and traditional conservation concepts to find a middle ground so that communities have enough to eat and harvest while also giving them the tools and additional knowledge that can be incorporated with their traditional knowledge to help manage their fisheries and target non-endangered species instead. Additionally, rangers are selected by the communities for the communities, stresses Verace.
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