Most people are likely familiar with the term shark fin soup, but names like flake, rock salmon, or cazón might not be as recognisable. While many stories and visuals highlight the shark fin trade, another significant factor is often overlooked: the shark meat trade.

Shark fin soup is not the only delicacy contributing to the decline of global shark populations. While the fin trade is centred around Southeast Asia, the trade and consumption of shark meat extends much further and are far closer to home than we might think. Today, the shark meat trade has surpassed the fin trade in both value and volume, and while the consumption of shark meat has multiple drivers, it is now considered a delicacy in countries like Australia, Italy, and Spain, where demand remains high and its popularity continues to rise.

Sharks have inhabited our oceans for over 400 million years, with some modern species, such as the tiger shark, emerging nearly 14 million years ago (Türtscher et al. 2021). Elasmobranchs have been incredibly successful, surviving all five mass extinction events. Today, there are over 500 identified species of sharks, exhibiting great diversity, from deep-sea species like the goblin shark to small tropical species like the epaulette shark.

However, despite their evolutionary success, elasmobranchs are now facing immense anthropogenic threats. The abundance of oceanic sharks and rays has declined by more than 70% in the last 50 years, and one-third of all elasmobranchs are now threatened with extinction. Meanwhile, all species of sharks and rays share one most prominent threat – and that’s overfishing.

While most species are caught incidentally as bycatch in other fisheries, some species of sharks and rays are actually still targeted in commercial fisheries. Although elasmobranchs have been caught for centuries in many countries, their capture rates today are unsustainably high. Sharks and rays are unlike bony fish; their life history traits make them far more vulnerable to fishing pressure. They mature late, have long gestation periods, and produce few offspring, which means they cannot reproduce as quickly as commercially caught fish  like tuna. 

One factor contributing to the overfishing of sharks is the demand for shark fin soup. In the 1980s and 1990s, as China’s economy grew, this once luxurious dish became more affordable and gained popularity. With increased international trade, the import and export of shark fins expanded, and shark fin soup consumption spread.

In the late 1990s, a decline in shark populations was first linked to the trade of shark fins and the consumption of shark fin soup. In response, conservation efforts led to regulations aimed at reducing the practice of ‘finning’—a cruel method where sharks are caught, their fins removed, and the carcasses discarded at sea.

Over the past 20 years, many countries have implemented anti-shark finning laws, such as the ‘fins naturally attached’ policy, which requires that the entire shark be brought to shore. This shift meant that not only the fins, but also the whole animal, were landed, opening new markets for other shark products. One trade in particular was significantly affected by this new piece of legislation: the shark meat trade. 

Shark meat has been traditionally consumed in many countries around the world. In Iceland, the consumption of shark meat dates back to the Viking era, with a traditional dish called hákarl, made from fermented Greenland shark, considered a delicacy. In some areas of India, the milk shark (Rhizoprionodon acutus), a species of sharpnose shark, has been traditionally consumed. The common name “milk shark” comes from a belief in India that eating its meat enhances lactation. Although shark meat consumption dates back centuries, its popularity has substantially grown in the last two decades, and the demand continues to rise.

One of the biggest differences between the shark meat trade and the fin trade is its global presence. While the fin trade is centred primarily in Southeast Asia, in cities like Hong Kong, Singapore, and Taiwan, the trade and consumption of shark meat extends much further and is closer to home than some might think. The consumption of shark meat is often associated with the fin trade, and a common misconception is that it is primarily centred around Southeast Asia.

However, the “Global Status of Sharks, Rays, and Chimaeras,” published by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) last year, revealed new data identifying Indonesia, Spain, India, the USA, and Mexico as the top elasmobranch fishing nations. In fact, Italy is the leading importer of shark meat, while Spain is the largest exporter. This report further emphasises the global reach of the shark meat trade. Although shark fins are generally more valuable than other body parts of the animal, the shark meat trade is still considered to be more lucrative than the fin trade.

Between 2012 and 2019, the shark fin trade generated US$1.5 billion, while the shark and ray meat trade generated US$2.6 billion. 

So, what drives shark meat consumption today? And how do these factors vary between countries? The reasons for consuming shark meat differ widely across regions, ranging from a subsistence food source to a delicacy. In many coastal areas of the Global South, shark has historically been an accessible and important source of protein. While sharks and rays are frequently caught as bycatch, they remain highly profitable and widely utilised.

In many cases, shark fins are removed and sold to middlemen and exporters, then shipped overseas, while the meat is consumed domestically. In several countries, shark meat is either dried and salted or sold fresh at local fish markets. In regions such as India and Brazil, shark meat served as an affordable protein source, often costing less than more popular species like tuna. Demand tends to increase when other fish stocks are depleted and shark meat becomes more abundant.

In recent years, however, shark landings have declined, leading to a noticeable decrease in the availability of shark meat in markets. In Sri Lanka, the price of shark meat has risen significantly in recent years due to declining shark landings. Over the past three years, it has occasionally been recorded as being as expensive as high-value fish species like yellowfin tuna or even billfish.

While shark meat consumption continues to grow in popularity, it also poses a significant threat to shark populations, particularly species already facing extinction. This issue is especially concerning when consumers are unaware they are eating shark – a widespread problem in many countries where seafood is poorly labeled or misidentified. You see, shark meat is often processed, cut into small pieces, or dried and salted, making it very difficult for consumers to recognise. On top of this, how it is marketed plays a crucial role in consumer awareness.

Shark meat is frequently sold under alternative names that do not explicitly indicate its origin. Since the 1920s, “flake” has been a popular dish in Australia, commonly available at fish and chip shops. Despite its long-standing popularity, a 2020 study by Essential Research found that one-third of Australians do not realise “flake” is actually shark meat. This mislabeling can lead to unsustainable consumer choices.

The term “flake” is intended to refer only to two shark species: gummy shark (Mustelus antarcticus) and New Zealand rig (Mustelus lenticulatus), both of which – according to the Fisheries Research & Development Corporation – have sustainable populations for fishing. However, a University of Adelaide study using DNA barcoding found that only 27% of tested flake samples were actually gummy shark. The study also identified four species threatened with extinction, including the shortfin mako (Isurus oxyrinchus) and the smooth hammerhead (Sphyrna zygaena). These findings highlight the risk of mislabeling shark products and the potential threat to endangered species.

Similar mislabeling practices occur worldwide. In Spain, shark is commonly sold as “cazón”; in Italy, as “spinarolo”; in Germany, as “Schillerlocke”; and in England, as “rock salmon” in fish and chip shops. 

Another risk associated with the mislabeling of shark products is its impact on consumer health. As top predators, most shark species occupy a high trophic level, making them particularly vulnerable to bioaccumulating and biomagnifying environmental pollutants such as heavy metals. These contaminants, especially methylmercury, can pose serious health risks when consumed in high concentrations.

Research has consistently found elevated levels of pollutants in commonly consumed shark species, raising concerns about the safety of shark meat in the human diet. A study by the University of Bari in Italy found high levels of mercury, methylmercury, and selenium in shark meat from a local fish market. The tested species – blue shark, porbeagle shark, and dogfish, among the most commonly consumed sharks in Europe – were all deemed unsafe for consumption.

Shark consumption continues to threaten shark populations, particularly endangered species frequently caught as bycatch. Since November 2023, over 150 elasmobranch species have been protected under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), requiring permits to ensure their international trade is conducted sustainably. While this was a significant milestone for shark and ray conservation, domestic trade remains poorly regulated in many countries. 

To reduce shark meat consumption – especially the risk of unknowingly eating shark – there are several steps we can take in our daily lives. When consuming seafood, it’s important to ask yourself a few key questions: Do you know what species you are eating? Do you know where it was caught? And were other species, such as sharks, caught as bycatch?

To avoid consuming shark, particularly endangered species, always check the name under which the fish is sold. If the fish isn’t sold whole, identifying the species can be difficult, making it essential to read labels carefully. Research the names under which shark meat is marketed in your country and avoid these products.

Buying locally caught fish and knowing its origin is another crucial step. Processed seafood, especially imported products with little information on species or origin, should be avoided to ensure sustainability and prevent the unintentional consumption of endangered species. Some labelling terms can be misleading – broad categories like “white fish” may include shark species. Asking questions about your seafood helps ensure transparency and informed choices. Many countries provide seafood guides that indicate which species can be ethically consumed and which should be avoided.

Sharks have roamed our oceans for hundreds of millions of years, existing even before trees. It is up to us to make responsible choices that help protect these incredible animals and ensure their survival for future generations.